Post by dratkinson » Wed Dec 29, 7:18 pm

Goto Dingbo to know more.

pshonore wrote:Or try this:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... arketID=10

It will do up to 10 110V circuits (or 8 if you need 2 of the circuits for a 220V well)

It also allows you to control which circuits are on the generator at any given time and makes monitoring that much easier. This installs right next to your main panel and the generator plugs directly into it.

Or try this:It will do up to 10 110V circuits (or 8 if you need 2 of the circuits for a 220V well)It also allows you to control which circuits are on the generator at any given time and makes monitoring that much easier. This installs right next to your main panel and the generator plugs directly into it.

Notice the HD panel is performing two separate functions. It is the (1) generator power inlet (the plastic plug the generator cord connect to) and an (2) electrical distribution panel with power interlocks (you can select mains current or generator current, but not both).

The electrician I bought my generator from used such a input/distribution panel to run his house during outages. He was pleased with it and explained how he installed it.

As the power inlet/distribution panel is not weatherproof it can't be mounted outside. And he didn't want to drag a generator cord through his house to it if he mounted it near his main panel. So he mounted the panel in his garage and re-homed the critical circuits from his home's main panel to the garage's generator inlet/distribution panel. (If he were being paid to do this, the rate I paid was $65/hr).

With the power inlet inside the house/garage, the generator cord must be run to it through some opening. When he ran his generator, his generator was outside, but the cord ran under his closed garage door to keep out the generator exhaust.

The problem of panel placement and wiring can be simplified if the power inlet/distribution functions can be separated. Then the breaker panel can be mounted near the home main panel, and the power inlet can be mounted outside. Then it is a much simpler wiring job for the distribution panel, and no opening is required in the home through which to run the generator cord.

You can buy a separate small weatherproof enclosure to house the power inlet. Then it can be mounted on an external wall and wired to connect to your generator distribution panel. If that generator distribution panel were mounted next to your house (single) main panel, it would be a very simple job to move the critical circuits over.


What's the best option?

Add up all of the pieces parts to see what is best for you.

*The HD panel is $270
*My power inlet (the plug part, only) and weather seal (a plastic flap to cover the inlet plug) were $90 (total, in ). (Probably more now.)
*Add for a small weatherproof enclosure to house the inlet/weather seal and for wiring to the generator distribution panel. (The 4-conductor, 30A/240V, stranded cable you will need is more than $1/ft.) This is the same cable you will want to use to make you generator connecting cable.

I really do like the idea of a separate generator distribution panel and dedicated critical circuits as it is less likely that you will overload your generator---the line monitors display the results of every circuit activation. Anything that prevents problems before they happen is a good thing.

The HD panel is rated at watts. If your generator is that size or larger, the panel will not overload it---you can run all circuits at once. If your generator is smaller than that, then you must monitor the effects of turning on different circuits/combinations.




When I ran the numbers to buy the smaller generator distribution panel, a separate weather-proof enclosure for the power inlet, and rewiring three electrical panels (main, basement, garage/shop), it was much cheaper to go the whole-house transfer switch route. (When I bought my HF transfer switch in , it was on sale for ~$200 delivered and cheaper than the small generator inlet/distribution panels---so it was a no-brainer for me. I notice the price has doubled since then.)

With both approaches and a smaller generator, it is still required to monitor the devices used---the reason for the dual line monitors on the HD panel, and that I plug-in in my kitchen.

When I tested my solution, I found my 5KW, 20+yo B&S generator consumed about .5 gal/hr for 3 hours (test duration). I was running my refrigerator, furnace, a few lights, TV, and computer to connect online. (My internet connection is over Ma Bell's powered copper.) So I guess I'm happy.

A larger generator would help me little, but would consume gas faster.

Good luck. Since we're curious, come back and tell us your final installed solution, costs for the parts/labor, any results from your test runs, and any gotchas discovered. These questions are asked sometimes and your solution can provide that data point.

Notice the HD panel is performing two separate functions. It is the (1) generator power inlet (the plastic plug the generator cord connect to) and an (2) electrical distribution panel with power interlocks (you can select mains current or generator current, but not both).The electrician I bought my generator from used such a input/distribution panel to run his house during outages. He was pleased with it and explained how he installed it.As the power inlet/distribution panel is not weatherproof it can't be mounted outside. And he didn't want to drag a generator cord through his house to it if he mounted it near his main panel. So he mounted the panel in his garage and re-homed the critical circuits from his home's main panel to the garage's generator inlet/distribution panel. (If he were being paid to do this, the rate I paid was $65/hr).With the power inlet inside the house/garage, the generator cord must be run to it through some opening. When he ran his generator, his generator was outside, but the cord ran under his closed garage door to keep out the generator exhaust.The problem of panel placement and wiring can be simplified if the power inlet/distribution functions can be separated. Then the breaker panel can be mounted near the home main panel, and the power inlet can be mounted outside. Then it is a much simpler wiring job for the distribution panel, and no opening is required in the home through which to run the generator cord.You can buy a separate small weatherproof enclosure to house the power inlet. Then it can be mounted on an external wall and wired to connect to your generator distribution panel. If that generator distribution panel were mounted next to your house (single) main panel, it would be a very simple job to move the critical circuits over.What's the best option?Add up all of the pieces parts to see what is best for you.*The HD panel is $270*My power inlet (the plug part, only) and weather seal (a plastic flap to cover the inlet plug) were $90 (total, in ). (Probably more now.)*Add for a small weatherproof enclosure to house the inlet/weather seal and for wiring to the generator distribution panel. (The 4-conductor, 30A/240V, stranded cable you will need is more than $1/ft.) This is the same cable you will want to use to make you generator connecting cable.I really do like the idea of a separate generator distribution panel and dedicated critical circuits as it is less likely that you will overload your generator---the line monitors display the results of every circuit activation. Anything that prevents problems before they happen is a good thing.The HD panel is rated at watts. If your generator is that size or larger, the panel will not overload it---you can run all circuits at once. If your generator is smaller than that, then you must monitor the effects of turning on different circuits/combinations.When I ran the numbers to buy the smaller generator distribution panel, a separate weather-proof enclosure for the power inlet, and rewiring three electrical panels (main, basement, garage/shop), it was much cheaper to go the whole-house transfer switch route. (When I bought my HF transfer switch in , it was on sale for ~$200 delivered and cheaper than the small generator inlet/distribution panels---so it was a no-brainer for me. I notice the price has doubled since then.)With both approaches and a smaller generator, it is still required to monitor the devices used---the reason for the dual line monitors on the HD panel, and that I plug-in in my kitchen.When I tested my solution, I found my 5KW, 20+yo B&S generator consumed about .5 gal/hr for 3 hours (test duration). I was running my refrigerator, furnace, a few lights, TV, and computer to connect online. (My internet connection is over Ma Bell's powered copper.) So I guess I'm happy.A larger generator would help me little, but would consume gas faster.Good luck. Since we're curious, come back and tell us your final installed solution, costs for the parts/labor, any results from your test runs, and any gotchas discovered. These questions are asked sometimes and your solution can provide that data point.

Benefits of Using a Three-Phase High Voltage Diesel Generator

If you&#;re trying to save money but looking for a powerful, high voltage diesel generator, then a used three-phase generator is the best choice for you. Three-phase high voltage diesel generators are ideal for data centers, large commercial buildings, or industrial centers. This article from Woodstock Power discusses the benefits of using a three-phase high voltage diesel generator.

Power

If you&#;re looking for a high voltage diesel generator, you&#;re looking for power. With that in mind, three-phase generators produce exceptionally higher voltage than single-phase generators. Common voltages for single-phase generators are 120, 240 and 120/240, but typically the voltage for a three-phase unit is 480. Other three-phase industrial generator voltages include:

If you want to learn more, please visit our website generator over voltage.

• 208
• 120/208
• 277/480
• 240
• 600 (primarily used in Canada)

High-voltage generators like these provide a power factor of 0.8. Also, they are primarily used for powering electrical industrial motors with higher horsepower and other heavy-duty applications.

Cost

Now, you might be thinking that power like that comes at a pretty penny, but buying a used three-phase high voltage diesel generator from Woodstock Power can give you all the bang for much less buck. In fact, you could save up to 70% off of the cost of a new one!

If you&#;re concerned that sacrificing dollars means sacrificing quality, do not worry. We purchase working, brand-name high-voltage generators ranging from 25kW-kW, perform any necessary restoration/repair work, and test them to ensure they&#;re in peak operating condition. Any generator that does not meet our high standards is rejected. 

Efficiency

Far and away the greatest benefit of purchasing a three-phase high voltage diesel generator is its efficiency. Consider how it contrasts with single-phase generators&#;

• More efficient use of conductors &#; with the same peak voltage between conductors and the same current in each conductor, 3-phase generators deliver three times more power with one and a half times the copper compared to single-phase generators.
• Always producing mechanical power &#; instantaneous power is never zero in a 3-phase generator, so no start winding is necessary and they have a smaller frame for the same horsepower.

Contact Woodstock Power for More!

If you&#;d like to know more about three-phase high voltage diesel generators, then let the expert staff at Woodstock Power do the hard work for you. Contact us and our friendly team can talk you through more benefits and help you decide what generator is right for your business.

Share with

The company is the world’s best Diesel Generator Set for Singapore supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.