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Welcome to Sonias Fude Corner! Brush designer Sonia G. is here to share expertise and knowledge about her handcrafted Fude, plus tips, techniques, and advice to make the most out of your makeup brushes. Sign up here to get notified about Sonias newest articles.
Brushes are an investment. Unlike makeup, they dont have an expiration date. But they do have a lifespan: when the brushes dont work properly anymore, we should replace them. If we take care of them, they can last a very long time. So, what can we do to make them last as long as possible?
Using the right brushes with the right products will make a big difference. Id like to answer one of your most frequently asked questions: How do you identify which natural brushes are safe to pair with cream and liquid formulations?
A full list of my Sonia G. brushes with my recommendations can be found at the bottom of this article.
The application of liquid products often requires a stronger (denser, firmer) brush to pick up and blend the product. When we apply pressure on the tip of a brush, either against a product or against the skin, some brushes can withstand the pressure better than others.
If the bristles are bending too much or if we have to aggressively rub them in order to get something done, then we need to switch brushes. Excessive pressure and aggressive movements are inevitably going to cause breakage.
All this means we need to take into consideration the hair quality, shape, firmness, and density of the brush. For a deeper dive on exactly how brushes get damaged, check out this article here.
The most common natural bristles in the Fude market are goat bristles. Other common ones are horse and squirrel; sometimes you will also see weasel and kolinsky.
Squirrel bristles should only be used with powders. Some manufacturers may tell you differently but keep in mind that since these bristles are very fine and delicate, they are more likely to break when used with excessive pressure and will need to be replaced more frequently.
If you have weasel or kolinsky brushes in your collection, these can be safely used with cream and liquid formulas.
Horse bristles can technically be used with both powders and liquid/creams. Horse bristles are usually quite short and thick so they are resilient for any product formulation.
Goat bristles can technically be used with both powder and liquid/creams, but it will also depend on the shape of the brush, the thickness of the bristles, if the bristles are dyed, and what type of dye was used.
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And, not all natural goat and horse hair brushes are ideal to pair with liquids and creams because it could cause damage to the bristles, so lets just dive into this a bit.
There are several types and grades of goat bristles. Some are super fine and delicate, others are sturdier and more durable. The finest, softest, and rarest is saibikoho (a selection of the finest saikoho bristles), then comes saikoho , then sokoho , then ototsuho , and hakutotsuho. There are more, but we dont see them as often or sometimes the manufacturers name them different names.
The higher the grade, the finer and silkier the bristles are, but that means finer bristles like saikoho are also more delicate in comparison to sturdier bristles like ototsuho or hakutotsuho. In the Fude world, its common to see liquid foundation brushes made from ototsuho or hakutotsuho rather than saikoho. Even though they dont feel as soft, they have more strength and more grip, which is better to deal with foundation and other creams and liquids.
There are times when white saikoho goat brushes can be used with creams and liquids, but it has to make sense. For example, a blush brush bundled with saikoho grade bristles might be just too weak and there is going to be too much friction, while a denser, shorter saikoho brush can be more resilient.
General Rules of Thumb:
Natural goat or horse hair brushes dyed with darker dyes could be used with creams and liquids if the manufacturer behind the brush recommends it.
Natural goat or horse hair brushes using white dyed bristles can be used with liquids and creams as they are unlikely to bleed dye, even with frequent washes. Just be sure to wash gently and take special care of them.
The Details:
Youve probably heard that you shouldnt use natural hair brushes with liquids and creams, but thats not necessarily the case. The recommendation came from the common practice of dyeing natural bristles with black dye because frequent washing would sometimes cause the brush to bleed dye. Nowadays, many manufacturers are leaving hair natural. Methods and dyes differ depending on the artisans but it can be useful to know this additional information about the process:
When the dyeing process does occur, the artisans determine how much they want the bristles to be rinsed for optimal preservation of softness, strength, and durability. Their priority is to keep the structure of the natural bristle as strong as possible. This means that sometimes the brushes are not rinsed excessively and may bleed dye when we wash them ourselves at home. While it can be an alarming sight, it doesnt mean the brush has or will have issues with liquids or creams. Still, it leads to brands not recommending dyed bristles, even when the dying process is done with very safe dyes.
The best way to have a clear answer is to call or the brand or the manufacturer themselves and ask if they recommend their dyed brushes for creams and liquids. Their answers will vary based on a number of factors including the type of dye they used, the shape of the brush, or just their desire to preserve the condition of the brushes.
I, for one, love dyed bristles for many reasons, technical and aesthetic. For example, some of my brushes (from my own brand Sonia G.) are dyed with a brown color. The manufacturers behind my brushes said that although we can technically use these dyed brushes with creams and liquids, they dont recommend it because it would be a shame to damage the fine and expensive saikoho goat bristles.
When determining whether a brush can be used for creams and liquids, you must also consider the design of the brush head and the length of the bristles. You want to make sure that repeated application motions will be suitable for the brush and will not cause too much stress and pressure where the bristles may bend too much and break.
For example, a stronger natural bristle like hakutotsuho goat may only be suitable for creams and liquids if the length of the hairs is shorter. Longer bristles can bend too much and break when being used with creams and liquids.
Since saikoho is a common hair used in my brushes, heres a quick guide:
Saikoho Brushes that Work with Creams and Liquids
Saikoho Brushes that Dont Work as Well with Creams and Liquids
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit FUYI Brush.
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