Apr. 29, 2024
Since basically the dawn of central air conditioning’s existence, AC units have come in cubes. For obvious reasons, the bottom is inaccessible-it’s got to sit somewhere-while the four lateral sides draw air into the unit. The heat removed from the air then exits via the only remaining face of the cube, the top.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Standalone AC coupled inverter. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
There’s a reason we’re breaking it down like this, so bear with us.
Side-Discharge (aka Inverter) Air ConditioningHave you heard the term “side-discharge air conditioner” before? It sounds like it should apply to a standard, cube-shaped air conditioner, like the kind we described above. But the term “side-discharge” actually refers to a completely different type of AC.
It’s a little counterintuitive, we know. Technically speaking, all ACs draw air in via at least one side. The thing is, side-discharge ACs intake air through one side only-and, after cooling it, discharge the heat energy via the opposite side of the unit. That’s the most obvious difference between them.
But it’s far from the only difference. Side-discharge AC systems work in a pretty unique (and frankly, better) way to perform their cooling function. We’ll come back to this point, so keep reading.
For now, you just need to know that “more sides” doesn’t equal “better” when it comes to air conditioning. Between the two forms of AC we’ve described, single-side discharge almost always serves as a distinguishing mark of the superior technology.
On that note, why not make things a little less confusing? Feel free to refer to side-discharge ACs by their other name: inverter ACs. We use these terms interchangeably.
Inverter AC Units aren’t new to the world-they’re just new to the US.Ductless air conditioners are far from new; in fact, they’re all the rage in climates that don’t have central AC. Whenever you see a picture of those little outdoor AC units that could fit in a suitcase, what you’re looking at is one example of ductless technology: a mini-split. A side-discharge inverter mini-split, to be precise.
As a general rule, mini-splits utilize a side-discharge inverter (we’ll also explain what this means later). Although not prevalent, these mini-splits have clearly existed in the US for some time. They’re not a new technology per se. They just aren’t nearly as familiar to us as the boxy, clunky machines we know and love…for better or for worse.
What is new is the concept of incorporating one of these inverter-powered mini-splits into a whole-home ducted AC system (in layman’s terms, a “central AC unit”).
Yes, you read that correctly. Central (ducted) AC is an American phenomenon. Yet, to American consumers, it feels like the most normal thing in the world. And while first-world air conditioning access is nothing less than a modern miracle, you might be surprised at how much it can still be improved.
Of course, the US is by no means small-we represent a huge portion of the world market-but we’re still just one country. So it’s worth asking why, when the rest of the world thinks of air conditioning, they don’t see a metal cube pop up in their minds like many of us do. To them, “AC” is synonymous with those ductless mini-splits that utilize a side-discharge inverter.
The world’s leader in side-discharge air conditioning, inverter technology, and swing compressors is a brand called Amana. Amana is the premium brand belonging to a company called Daikin-the largest manufacturer of HVAC equipment not only in the US, but the world. They’re also the only company that manufactures the inverters for its own brands, meaning they actually build the tech that they sell through Amana.
A long time ago, Amana developed a side-discharge air conditioner specifically tailored to work as part of a ducted system. It’s actually been an option for US homeowners for a long time. So why haven’t we heard more about it since then? We’ll get to that, too. In the meantime, Austin Plumbing, Heating & Air has been installing and servicing these inverter ACs in Wisconsin for decades.
What exactly is a side-discharge inverter AC?If you’ve been paying attention up to this point, your curiosity has finally been rewarded. Below, we’ll explain how inverter tech actually works with respect to air conditioners. But for the sake of this guide, we’re going to keep it a pretty high-level discussion.
Let’s start with a basic, working definition:
You’ll find an inverter performs the exact same job as a cube AC, but in a different way and with more impressive results.
What gets inverted in a side-discharge air conditioner? (Why is it called an “inverter”?)Here’s the essential process that gives inverters their name as well as their leg-up over cube ACs:
And there, in a nutshell, is the entire point of an inverter: to make your daily life more comfortable.
Inside an inverter AC is a rectifier that takes inefficient, sloppy, 220-volt household power through a three-step process to invert it from a sinusoidal wave into one straight electrical current. This is called direct-current (DC) voltage.
DC power doesn’t travel as far as it would in its original form, which is why DC isn’t usually used to power homes. Thus, our air conditioning framework is usually ducted to accommodate alternating-current (AC) electricity instead.
However, DC power is worlds more stable and efficient than AC power. After the incoming 220v AC power has been inverted into DC, that DC voltage is then converted into a manufactured, uber-efficient DC three-phase power. Now, the machine receiving the current can freely regulate the amount of power it sends to each of its parts. For our purposes, that means every component of the air conditioning system receives power on a strictly as-needed basis.
By harnessing inverter technology to turn AC (alternating current) power into DC 3-phase power, manufacturers have been able to step up their game across the board. All motors that run on this manufactured power are quieter, longer-running, and more efficient than their alternatives. The motor in your home AC unit is no exception. Isn’t that cool?
We’re done talking about alternating-current electricity. Congrats-you made it! For the rest of the guide, we’ll go back to using AC to mean “air conditioner” only.
At last, we’re out of the tech woods and into the nitty-gritty. Now that you understand the essential differences between the two technologies, let’s look at how those differences affect your choice of AC.
What Wisconsin Wants in an Air ConditionerIn this section, side-discharge ACs will go head-to-head against standard cube ACs in six separate categories, each representing one of the traits Wisconsin consumers value most in an air conditioner. The categories are:
Let the battles begin!
Round 1: Inverter Efficiency vs. Cube EfficiencyWait. How is efficiency even quantified? (Good question, by the way.)
A number of everyday household appliances get something called a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). Heat pumps and air conditioners, however, use an updated set of criteria as of 2023. This new official grading system is called SEER2. We might go more in-depth about how these ratings are calculated in a future guide, but don’t worry! This is not that guide.
In short, SEER2 describes an AC’s energy efficiency in the same way MPG describes a car’s fuel efficiency-your mileage may vary. Realistically speaking, the methodology behind these ratings has its own limitations. That doesn’t make SEER ratings meaningless or useless. It just makes them imperfect, which means they can only be so accurate.
Here’s how things really play out:
If it seems weird to compare the theoretical potential of one air conditioner to the minimum standard of operation for another, you’re right! It is weird, but more on that later. Right now, our point is that a true, proper comparison would require both air conditioners to stand on equal footing.
…Which is why it’s extra funny that despite the stricter standards placed on them, inverters still get higher SEER ratings than cubes.
In this section, we’re not referring to a unit’s “carbon footprint”, but rather its physical size.
Over the years, as cube ACs have improved in efficiency, they’ve also become more massive. Some modern units are about as big and heavy as a refrigerator-a far cry from the diminutive design of a mini-split.
For comparison, let’s look at a common example of each type of air conditioner:
The inverter AC comes in at exactly one-third the size of the cube. Really let that sink in.
For reference, imagine your refrigerator shrank by about 66%. When it comes to ease of transport (not to mention storage), a mini-split is like…well, the minifridge of air conditioners.
Adding to that, side-discharge ACs are much more forgiving when it comes to placement, and not only because of their size. The way they’re constructed, they can safely function much closer to your house. About 4 inches away from the wall is plenty, unlike the 18 to 24 inches of clearance required by a standard cube air conditioner.
Fun fact: Side-discharge units can also be placed closer to each other, which instantly and understandably wins them the favor of homeowners with multiple AC systems.
Two things can make an air conditioner loud: the compressor and the outdoor fan.
Since we have experience with Amana in particular, we can confirm that their inverters are almost inaudible, even on startup. You’d have to make everyone be quiet and put your ear to the unit in order to pick up any sound.
Do you want to know what kills anything with a motor? Starting and stopping. This is simply the nature of motorized technology: every time it does its job, it gets closer to death.
The real question is, how can you decrease cycling without sacrificing comfort? In our professional (and human) opinion, just “toughing out” those 80°F summer days until they hit 85 is not a real solution. For obvious reasons, our clients tend to agree. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why we work with Amana to make inverters an option for Wisconsin residents.
An inverter’s “soft start” when powering-on your AC improves more than its runtimes. When an air conditioner is able to run for longer durations, as inverters enable side-discharge units to do, all of its fans, compressors, and major wearable components degrade less quickly. In turn, the appliance itself gains longevity.
It doesn’t have to cycle as frequently, and you don’t have to get it replaced as frequently.
There’s more to comfort than we discussed in the last round. We think it deserves its own category, and our customers have agreed. So let’s dive into it.
As mentioned previously, a cube is either on and running as hard as it can, or it’s totally off. You can tell it when to start-and by adjusting the settings on your thermostat, you can kind of tell it when to stop-but in the meantime, it’s blasting cold air like its life depends on it (when in fact, the opposite is true). Lather, rinse, repeat until it finally quits working altogether.
Short of switching to a side-discharge unit with an inverter, there’s no way for you to adjust your AC’s power usage. And when it’s 100 degrees outside, who cares? You need everything it can give you.
But what about when it’s not triple-digits outside?
That probably sounds hard to believe, and it’s certainly not a pleasant thought. Unfortunately, a standard cube AC is sized with the worst-case scenario in mind. (Noticing a trend yet?)
We get it: when it’s hot, you want it cold. But this is the reality of the situation. Only one to five days out of the year is a typical Wisconsin AC system sized correctly. The other 360 to 364 days, that cube is way larger than it needs to be. All that extra bulk is dead weight. It comes at a cost, and that cost isn’t just monetary. It also directly affects your comfort, which nullifies the purpose of having air conditioning in the first place.
Size matters, but bigger isn’t better. Here’s why:
When an AC is too big, it cools the surrounding environment too quickly (that’s a thing, believe it or not) without properly addressing the humidity in the air. Clammy, cold and damp, the entire house ends up feeling like a basement. And that’s when your cube decides it’s time to shut off. At this point, it’s not even attempting to dehumidify your home (which is already starting to get hot again, by the way).
To make matters worse, excessively large ACs also tend toward shorter, more frequent cycling, which causes incessant temperature fluctuations-and again, an abbreviated lifespan.
A common thought process goes something like, “Extreme temperatures may be uncommon, but I still want to be prepared for them.” That is totally reasonable. As a matter of fact, we feel exactly the same way.
If you want comfort and control on even the worst of days, it may seem like you’ve got no choice but to go with an oversized air conditioner. What we’re trying to get across here is that that’s not true. There is a better way to cool your home year-round.
First of all, inverter ACs are designed so that they can function optimally regardless of weather conditions. Instead of sizing based on what the sky might look like tomorrow, they’re perfectly sized for your home.
Also, when we say inverter air conditioners can run for longer periods of time, that’s an understatement. An inverter is designed to run pretty much non-stop-and that’s a good thing! Side-discharge ACs, because of the way their inverters work, deliver just enough cooling to the home to keep the thermostat satisfied. As the load on the house fluctuates, the AC is able to ramp itself up or down accordingly. Temperatures in the home are more consistent, humidity is managed around the clock, and the overall experience is just so much smoother than that of a cube.
Inverter ACs are a premium product in that they only occupy the upper echelons of energy efficiency. When compared with a low-efficiency, builder’s grade air conditioner, the side-discharge AC will naturally be more expensive.
But that’s not a one-to-one comparison. What if you compare a side-discharge to a cube AC with an equivalent SEER rating? It’s a total wash.
This is also one of those cases where a good brand can deliver more than expected. For a more specific example, consider one of Amana’s 16-SEER inverter ACs: they’re generally equal in cost to a 16-SEER cube AC-and sometimes even less, despite being superior to the cube in every way.
Ok, so we ran a tournament with no eliminations. But we wanted to give both ACs a chance to make their respective cases (after all, we do sell and service both kinds!). In the end, inverter ACs dominated in every single category.
By all accounts, side-discharge air conditioners should have taken over the US market by now.
…So why haven’t they?
If inverters are superior to cubes, why aren’t they more common?Inverter technology wipes the floor with our traditional concept of air conditioning, and yet the market doesn’t seem to reflect that. What’s really going on here?
Alas, purists write the dictionary. If you want a true inverter AC, you can’t just get a side-discharge unit and call it a day. You have to install the complete system! That means a brand-new furnace-because heating and cooling systems are interconnected-as well as the side-discharge air conditioner itself; and finally, an OEM thermostat.
In order to deliver on its maximum potential, all the technology must match. That’s how the argument goes. It’s true, too: the average consumer can’t financially justify that kind of expenditure. Before long, though, you won’t even have to.
There’s a module in the works at Amana that will allow us to install a side-discharge AC unit onto an existing furnace like the one in most Wisconsin homes. Of course, if you choose to go the retro-fit route, you won’t get all the features of a full inverter AC system. Still, with the features it does offer, your new side-discharge unit will run circles around your old cube.
When you need help with your air conditioner, call on us!Got AC questions? Hell, got an AC? We’re experts on that thing that makes your summers bearable. So don’t sweat the small stuff-call Austin Plumbing, Heating & Air at 262-367-3808 any time you need.
Disconnecting from the local grid gives you energy independence. It’s the freedom to live remotely away from overpopulated areas and stop handing your hard-earned money over to utility providers.
Whether you’re looking to save money, live remotely, or travel cross-country, off-grid solar systems are strongly worth considering.
Going off-grid doesn’t have to be complicated.
We’ve distilled the essentials of off-grid solar systems. Here’s everything you need to know to build an independent DIY off-grid solar power system and whether going off-grid or staying grid-tied is the right solution for your energy needs and budget.
Related links:For more Advanced grid connected inverterinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
An off-grid solar system satisfies your electrical requirements by harnessing the sun’s power without relying on the electrical grid. Without a direct connection to a utility grid, your off-grid solar system provides an independent power supply to your home, RV or trailer.
The off-grid solar system comprises the following components:
These components all work together to provide energy for your home’s electrical appliances and devices.
Here’s how it works:
Grid-tied solar systems connect to the utility grid, while off-grid systems don’t. The difference between grid-tied and off-grid solar power systems centers around where you store the energy you generate.
Every system requires a place to store energy. Solar panels only capture energy when the sun is out, but you’ll still need a way to power your home in the evening.
With grid-tied systems, your panels transport the electricity generated to the utility grid. The utility provider distributes this energy to other residents in the community. In return, you can earn credits for the excess energy you generate through a net-metering program.
Off-grid power is different. Without the utility grid to keep your energy in reserve, you’ll need to find alternative storage. A solar battery or portable power station offers dedicated energy storage, allowing you to access stored energy during cloudy weather, nights, or blackouts.
A solar-powered off-grid system has numerous benefits, but it’s not without its challenges. Here are the factors to consider:
Pros of solar-powered off-grid systems:
Cons of solar-powered off-grid systems:
Installation costs for off-grid power solutions can increase the upfront investment. The good news is that you can get around paying labor and installation fees by doing it yourself. It’s a multi-step process but feasible for DIY enthusiasts.
Follow these steps to build your simple off-grid solar power system and save.
Start by calculating your daily power consumption for running your appliances and devices. Knowing your power consumption will let you determine your solar panel and battery storage requirements.
You can calculate your energy requirement using the following steps:
For example, a TV may require 80W. If you plan on using your TV for five hours daily, the total energy consumption required for running your TV is 400 Wh.
Add up all of your appliances and devices. Examples include refrigerators, lights, water heaters, electric fans, grills, coffee makers, power tools, laptops, Wi-Fi routers… anything in your home that requires electricity.
You can also look at your previous electric bills, which should list your monthly kilowatt-hour (kWh) output. Divide the monthly kWh by 30 days to estimate your daily electricity usage.
Your battery storage should have at least enough capacity to accommodate your daily energy usage in kilowatt-hours. However, that’s only part of the equation.
You also have to estimate how many days your system will be without the sun. You can search for your area’s annual average of cloudy or sunny days online. A smaller solar battery capacity may be sufficient in areas with lots of sunlight, while larger solar battery banks are best in regions with more cloudy days. When in doubt, it’s best to size up rather than down.
Each battery has a Depth of Discharge (DoD) rate, meaning you can’t take all the power from the battery. Lead acid gel batteries typically give around 50% of the total rated power, meaning a 100Ah battery delivers 50Ah of usable energy. LiFePO4 batteries distribute 80% of the rated power capacity.
Let’s say you’re total daily energy consumption is 3,000 Wh, and you need two days of backup for potentially cloudy days. And assuming that you use LiFePO4 batteries, it has a DoD of 80%.
Here’s the formula for calculating battery storage capacity taking into account times when you may not be able to generate much solar power due to cloud cover:
Daily Energy Consumption x Number of Cloudy Days / Depth of Discharge = Solar Battery Storage Capacity
3,000 Wh x 2 (backup cloudy days) / 0.8 (DoD) = 7,500 Wh of battery storage capacity.
You can be extra cautious by accounting for the annual correction factor. Batteries lose their capacity over time, meaning they won’t hold the same amount of power after a certain number of life cycles.
Here’s what it would look like in the above example:
3,000 Wh x 2 (backup cloudy days) x 1.15 (annual correction factor) / 0.8 (DoD) = 8,625 Wh of battery storage capacity.
Before rushing out and purchasing solar panels, find out if your location can accommodate solar. You’ll need to calculate your energy usage and find the solar panels with the best conversion efficiency rating.
First, you need to understand the number of peak hours of sunlight your area receives every month. Then divide your monthly electrical usage by your monthly sunlight hours.
If you’re installing solar panels on the roof, you’ll need to account for the roof direction and shading, in which case, a solar calculator can provide a more accurate estimate.
Also, the number of solar panels depends on the panel’s power output. Most solar panels produce between 100 and 400 watts of power.
Let’s say you use 3,000 watts of power per day and receive five peak sunlight hours daily.
If you’re buying a 250W panel, each panel produces approximately 1,250 watts daily (250W panel x 5 peak sunlight hours).
As a result, you need at least three 250W panels to generate 3,000 watts of power per day. Three panels will give you approximately 3,750W of power. Excess stored energy can help prepare you for cloudy days when you may not receive maximum output from your solar panels.
Solar charge controllers prevent batteries from overcharging. If the current is too high, it can damage the battery and potentially start a fire. If the battery is running at a dangerously low level, the control disconnects it to prevent harmful usage.
Pulse With Modulation (PWM) and Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) regulars are the two most common types of solar charge controllers. MPPT controllers are more efficient than PWM controllers since they compare the panel’s voltage against the battery’s voltage.
PWM controllers send pulses of power by switching the power flow on and off continuously. It establishes a direct connection between your panels and the bank, making it the most straightforward and affordable option.
MPPT regulators optimize the voltage between the panel and the battery to extract maximum voltage, especially during rough weather conditions. While MPPT controllers are more expensive, they’re also 20% to 30% more efficient. Also, they’re best for high-voltage PV systems like your home.
PWM controllers are ideal when you have a small system and won’t need to maximize efficiency, such as powering an RV.
MPPT controllers are essential for a large-scale system such as powering your home since maximum efficiency is a priority.
Ideally, look for charge controllers that let you monitor and customize the regulator via an app on your mobile device. If you’re living in a rainy region, consider getting a waterproof control to ensure the controller’s safety.
The inverter manages the power flow between DC and AC energy. It takes the DC power from your panels or batteries and converts it into standard household AC electricity. After conversion, you can use it for your lights, TV, fridge, and other household appliances.
First, consider your off-grid solar inverter size. The size depends on your energy output. Here are general recommendations to help you pick out the proper inverter size:
Next, look at the technical specs of the inverter. We’ve laid out the standard specs and given you metrics to consider:
The Balance of System (BOS) is all the photovoltaic components except for the module and solar panels. BOS primarily includes charge controllers, batteries, inverters, wiring, switching, junction boxes, and power conditioners.
Other elements within the BOS cover mounting systems, battery chargers, sensors, safety devices, solar concentrators, solar trackers, and lens reflectors.
You’ll have to purchase all these BOS components if you’re putting together your own DIY off-grid solar system. For example, wiring connects the solar panels to all other electrical parts of the off-grid solar system. Opting for dedicated solar cables means they can withstand UV radiation, temperature, and weather variations.
Mounting systems support solar panels. Whether ground-mounted or on the roof, you need to secure the solar panels. A solid mounting system keeps solar panels upright to withstand wind and secures them from physical damage.
Once you’ve calculated your energy use, battery storage, solar panels, and hardware needs, you’re ready to build your DIY off-grid solar system!
A power kit is a convenient way to switch to off-grid power if you want to skip the complicated installation and save money by bundling the BOS components. The EcoFlow Power Kit is a hassle-free plug-and-play modular power system. It requires less wiring, meaning fewer mistakes, and lets you instantly deploy and use off-grid power.
The power kit contains four components: the power hub, smart console, solar battery, and smart AC/DC distribution panel.
Unlike traditional power kits, Ecoflow Power Hub conceals the components in one box, saving space, and is easy to set up. The Power Hub includes:
The console allows you to monitor and control your energy consumption, while the LFP battery (or batteries) stores your energy. The smart distribution panel regulates your AC and DC loads.
The EcoFlow Power Kits feature stackable batteries, allowing you to add up to three batteries of the same size. The batteries come in two battery sizes: 2kwH and 5kWh. If you’re unsure about your backup power needs, you can start with one or two batteries and add more later.
EcoFlow Power Kits are designed to be plug-and-play and require no specialist knowledge to install. You or your installer of choice should have no problem installing the Power Kit. If you run into problems, EcoFlow has your back with live chat on EcoFlow App, tutorial videos, and a quick start guide to help you during the installation process.
Here are the basic steps required to install an EcoFlow power kit:
The best off-grid solar system for you depends on your energy needs, which often come down to your household size and whether your installation is at a fixed location, like a tiny home, or mobile, like an RV.
EcoFlow’s Power Kit calculator makes it easy to design a custom off-grid solar system that meets your needs.
For reference, here are some common use cases:
The best solar power kit for vans, RVs, and trailers is EcoFlow’s Get Set 5kWh Kit, a space-saving, plug-and-play system.
A 5kWh battery gives you ample capacity to satisfy the appliances in your RV. With the uncertainty of the weather conditions while on the road, it’s better to be safe than sorry if you run into extended cloud cover.
Unlike some solar power kits, the Get Set Kit features an LFP or lithium-ion battery. It has a longer lifespan and greater efficiency than older battery technology, lasting up to 20 years. Furthermore, an LFP battery is safe and requires no maintenance.
Depending on your RV’s shape, we recommend combining rigid and flexible solar panels to maximize your solar energy generation potential. Both flexible and rigid solar panels are durable, lightweight, and can endure extreme weather.
For the EcoFlow Get Set 5kWh Kit and the two 100W rigid solar panels (mounting feet included), you could build this whole setup for $226 a month with financing or less than $8000.*
A tiny house is unlikely to have as many appliances as a normal-sized house. It’s why we recommend the EcoFlow 10kWh Prepared Kit. A 10kWh capacity provides substantial power to run your lights and appliances.
The compact size of the power kit lets you save space in your tiny house, and installation is a breeze. It uses a simple parallel connection, meaning you place all the battery units side by side and connect each wire to the Power Hub.
We recommend getting one or two 400W Rigid Solar Panels to give you enough daily electricity to power your tiny house. Rigid solar panels are highly durable under any weather condition and are easy to mount on a flat roof. If you have a slanted roof, flexible solar panels may be a more viable option — or you can consider a combination of the two.
For the EcoFlow 10kWh Prepared Kit along with the 400W Solar Panel, you could expect to pay approximately $14,000.* Frequent discounts and sales at the EcoFlow online shop may make that price drop even lower.
Living in a remote location requires homeowners to prepare for anything. Whether you’ve got tons of power-hungry appliances in your home or want backup power for consecutive cloudy days, choosing a system with sufficient capacity is vital.
We recommend EcoFlow’s 15kWh Independence Kit for DIY off-grid living. With three stackable 5kWh batteries and a smart distribution panel, it’s a robust solution for fully independent off-grid living.
A 7-inch touchscreen lets you view all critical information and monitor the DC output and battery charging data in real-time. Additionally, you can customize the AC charging and discharging levels, AC input frequency, and 12/24 DC output voltage.
The EcoFlow app allows you to remotely monitor much of the Console’s data. Check the app to view the system’s health and update firmware anytime.
For a high-powered system like the 15kWh Independence Kit, we recommend at least two 400W Solar Panels. Depending on your home’s design, flexible solar panels can also help you maximize solar energy capture. The setup gives you enough power to supply your batteries and keep your home powered on demand.
The cost for the EcoFlow’s 15kWh Independence Kit and the two 400W rigid solar panels (mounting feet included) would average just under $500 a month with financing and less than $20,000 to purchase outright.* With EcoFlow sales, you could even pay less than $15,000.
To get the most out of your off-grid solar system, you must know how to size your system correctly to cover your energy usage.
Take a look at the following steps to size your solar system:
Using the EcoFlow Power Kit Calculator, you can accurately determine your usage and correctly size your solar power kit in minutes.
The costs vary depending on the sizes and quality of each component. A significant share of expenses comes from the solar panel’s output, the number of panels you buy, and the solar battery storage capacity.
Here are estimated averages based on the rated power of the solar panels:
Know that the costs will likely be lower when you apply for the 26% federal tax credit and other available tax breaks and incentives.
Also, we’ll break down the cost by the equipment you’ll need:
If you have a tiny home, RV, or trailer or live a minimalistic lifestyle, there’s a good chance your costs will be lower.
The number of solar panels largely depends on the following:
By following the steps above, you can calculate your daily energy usage. From there, look for rigid, flexible, or portable solar panels that suit your needs. Depending on your region, some areas will have more sunlight hours than others. States like Arizona, California, Nevada, and Mexico have the most sunshine, while states like Alaska, Washington, Ohio, Indiana, and Michigan have the least.
Maintaining your off-grid solar system extends its lifespan. The most critical maintenance aspect is taking great care of your solar batteries.
Follow these guidelines for maintaining your solar battery bank:
Besides the batteries, you also want to take care of your solar panels. Keep solar panels clean of dirt, debris, and pollen build-up, which impact the amount of sunlight received. Also, clean your solar panels annually to prevent residue from reducing the amount of power they can produce.
If you’re still on the fence about off-grid living, let’s consider why most people choose this lifestyle.
As with any renewable energy, solar power is better for the environment than fossil fuel energy. Solar power lets you generate electricity without emitting greenhouse gases, thus reducing your carbon footprint by leveraging the sun’s power.
Going off-grid with solar benefits our planet and helps us reach a net-zero future.
An off-grid solar solution is a practical choice for those living in areas without access to traditional electricity provided by utilities. Off-grid solar systems don’t rely on outside electricity and function independently, making them perfect for remote regions or places prone to blackouts.
Being independent of the grid also is advantageous in areas prone to harsh weather conditions like tornadoes and hurricanes. Whether traveling in an RV or living in a tiny home to reduce living costs, energy independence is why many people switch to off-grid solar power.
Below are some common questions about off-grid solar systems:
Do I Need a Permit for Off-Grid Solar?Yes, you’re typically required to have a permit for off-grid solar. Although you don’t have to submit an interconnection utility agreement, a building permit is still mandatory.
Although you won’t connect the system to a local utility grid, it still needs to pass inspection to ensure sound structural engineering and fire safety.
Your off-grid solar system must pass various building electrical codes to ensure the power is safe and sufficient. Standard off-grid systems should meet the following regulations:
• Solar panel placement guidelines
• Standard domestic wiring requirements
• Auxiliary power generation requirements
• Power storage and conversion guidelines
• DC minimum wiring requirements
Code requirements will vary by county and state. Check with your city or county Building Inspector’s office for a complete checklist.
An off-grid cabin typically needs between 5,000 to 7,000 watts per hour of electricity to run optimally. However, you’ll need to add up the running hours on the appliances you use to get the right amount of solar power tailored to your needs.
How Many Solar Panels Does It Take to Run a House Off-Grid?The number of solar panels needed to run a house off-grid entirely depends on the following factors:
• Amount of electricity your household uses
• Amount of direct daily sunlight
• The type of solar panel you choose
• Amount of useable roof space (if roof-mounted)
The average kilowatts used for a household is around 11,000 kilowatt-hours per year. A 1500 sq. ft. home needs about 20 to 25 300W panels to go entirely free of the grid. RVs and smaller homes require significantly less.
With more people going off-grid than ever before, there’s never been a better time to join the energy independence movement.
It all starts with calculating your energy needs and finding the right size power kit for your RV, tiny home, or home to achieve full-time off-grid living.
Check out the options at EcoFlow today.
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Efficient single phase string inverter.
If you are interested in sending in a Guest Blogger Submission,welcome to write for us!
All Comments ( 0 )